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Hidden within the winding alleys of the Gothic Quarter, Plaça de Sant Felip Neri stands as one of the city’s most haunting and atmospheric places. The secluded square, anchored by the Baroque Church of Saint Philip Neri, exudes a quiet, timeless charm. Its worn stone facades and tranquil ambiance invite reflection, while the scars on its walls hint at a turbulent past. A place of both spiritual depth and historical sorrow, it offers a striking contrast to the bustling streets nearby—a serene pocket where Barcelona’s layered history lingers in silence.
The Baroque Church
At the heart of Plaça de Sant Felip Neri stands its most striking feature—the Church of Sant Felip Neri, built in the mid-18th century by the Oratorians, followers of Saint Philip Neri who had settled in the area in 1673. Antoni Gaudí was on his way to this church on the day he died after being hit by a tram on Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes.
Spanish Civil War Bombing
The façade of the church is heavily pockmarked as a result of a bombing raid that took place during the Spanish Civil War on the 30th of January 1938. The bombing killed 42 people, mostly children. It is also said that summary executions took place here after the fall of Barcelona to the Nationalists in 1939, with bullet holes in the wall of the church still visible.
Cultural and Artistic Significance
Plaça de Sant Felip Neri’s haunting allure has long captivated filmmakers, photographers, and artists. It is a location in Woody Allen’s movie Vicky Cristina Barcelona, and in the music video for My Immortal by Evanescence. It is also used in the popular novel The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafón.
The square now attracts students, historians, and travelers seeking an authentic link to Barcelona’s Civil War past, well removed from the Gothic Quarter’s busier lanes. Local residents guard the space against over-commercialization, preserving its quiet integrity and ensuring that its pockmarked walls remain a living memorial. Here, tragedy, beauty, and creative inspiration converge, making the square both a refuge and a testament to the city’s resilience.
Visiting Plaça de Sant Felip Neri
To find Plaça de Sant Felip Neri, wander through the narrow, stone-paved streets behind the Barcelona Cathedral. The square is best visited early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when it’s at its most peaceful and contemplative. There are no cafes or shops, just a fountain, a few benches, and echoes of the past. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply in search of a quiet moment away from the crowds, a visit to this hidden square offers a deeply moving experience—one that speaks not only of sorrow, but of endurance and quiet grace.