Besalú

Besalú is a well-preserved medieval town, in the foothills of the Eastern Pyrenees in the Garrotxa region. With a population of fewer than 2,500, Besalú is just 35 kilometers from Girona and around an hour from Barcelona. The town transports you back in time with its cobbled streets, Romanesque architecture, and captivating stone bridge. It was designated as a conjunt històric-artístic (historical national property) in 1966.

History

Besalú’s origins reach back to Roman times. The town served as a fortress between the Fluvia and Capellades rivers, its name stemming from the Latin bisuldunum. First documented in 894 under Count Wilfred the Hairy, the town became capital of a Frankish county and later the independent County of Besalú, maintaining autonomy until its annexation by Barcelona in 1111. Strategically perched on the Fluvià River, Besalú controlled the trade routes linking the Costa Brava, the Pyrenees, and southern France. Its bustling market ranked among the region’s largest from the 11th to the 14th centuries.

Romanesque Bridge

Pont Vell, a 12th-century Romanesque bridge that angles sharply across the Fluvià River to follow the natural bedrock. Fortified with a gateway tower at its midpoint, the structure rests on seven uneven arches. It once served as both a checkpoint and a line of defense, with a zigzag layout designed to slow advancing armies. Damaged during the Spanish Civil War, it was painstakingly rebuilt in the 1960s and remains one of Spain’s most photographed medieval landmarks.

Medieval Architecture

Beyond its iconic bridge, Besalú is rich in medieval architecture that reflects its cultural and religious heritage. The Church of Sant Pere, consecrated in 1003, stands as one of Catalonia’s oldest Romanesque structures, with a striking bell tower and vaulted nave.

The Jewish quarter preserves the remains of a 13th-century synagogue and Spain’s only Romanesque mikveh, a ritual bath carved from stone. The 12th-century Hospital de Sant Julià, built to aid pilgrims, and the Royal Curia highlight Besalú’s role as a center of care and governance.

Though little remains of the original 10th-century castle, the adjacent Church of Santa Maria traces the site’s evolution from fortress chapel to collegiate church. Completing the ensemble is the Romanesque Church of Sant Vicenç, home to a Gothic chapel said to house a fragment of the True Cross.

Festivals

Each September, the Besalú Medieval festival takes place. The two-day celebration transforms the entire town into a lively reenactment of its mediaval past. Locals don period costumes, the streets are filled with the sounds of medieval music, and artisans showcase traditional crafts along cobbled alleys, river walks, and historic squares. Knights in armor roam the town, merchants sell goods from wooden stalls, and the air is rich with the aromas of medieval-inspired cuisine.

Surroundings

Besalú lies on the edge of La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, a striking landscape shaped by 38 volcanic cones and more than 20 basaltic lava flows. Just a short drive away, the Fageda d’en Jordà beech forest offers a serene escape into nature and is a favorite among hikers and nature enthusiasts. Banyoles Lake is another nearby attraction, with scenic walking trails, rowing, and crystal-clear waters.

Where to Stay

Els Jardins De La Martana Located right by Besalú’s Romanesque bridge, offering beautiful views of the town and surrounding mountains. Set in a restored 19th-century mansion, it features elegant rooms, a peaceful garden, and a warm, inviting atmosphere.

Mas Pere Pau Catalan farmhouse a 5-minute drive (about 3 km) from Besalú’s historic center. Set within beautiful gardens, it offers a mix of well‑appointed rooms, studios, and apartments, many with kitchenettes and terraces. Guests can also enjoy a seasonal outdoor (saltwater) pool, a cozy lounge with fireplace, and a terrace bar.

Hotel 3 Arcs A family-run boutique hotel beside the Three Arches in Besalú’s historic centre. Housed in a beautifully restored stone building, it offers 12 cozy, modern room across three floors. The hotel also has a café/bar and a bright terrace open for breakfast or drinks.

Book Online: From Barcelona: Girona, Besalú & Castellfollit Day Trip